There’s a slower, more beautiful way to melt into a Kerry afternoon, and it hums along on a single beam of steel. In the butter-soft light above the River Feale, a little heritage line glides past hedgerows and meadows, the sort of ride locals recommend with a wink rather than a shout.
“It’s the kind of ride where your shoulders drop by the second bend,” says no one in particular, yet everyone who’s been. The rhythm is gentle, the scenery close, and the stories run deeper than the rails are long.
Why this little line steals your afternoon
This is the Lartigue Monorail in Listowel, County Kerry’s most charming piece of railway theatre. It’s a short run, a volunteer-led operation, and a masterclass in Irish hospitality and ingenuity.
You won’t be chasing summits or crossing dramatic tunnels here. Instead, you’ll watch the sky widen, hear a curlew, and collect tiny details—a child’s wave, a garden gate, the clean clack of wheels on steel.
A quirk of engineering that makes perfect sense
The original line, opened in 1888, ran to Ballybunion on a single central rail that trains straddled like saddlebags on a camel. It was the brainchild of Charles Lartigue, a French inventor with desert dreams and coastal ambition.
Today’s recreation is faithful where it counts. Carriages balance on both sides, curves feel floaty, and points are worked with old-school showmanship and careful hands. It’s part moving museum, part magic trick you can actually ride.
“Balance is the whole idea, and it’s the whole delight,” goes the kind of line you’ll want to repeat, because it’s true and pleasingly odd.
The ride itself
You set off at an amble, low enough to smell clover and high enough to catch swallows arcing like ink across the air. The seats are simple, the views intimate, and the pace made for conversation and noticing.
There’s a light clatter, a soft sway, and that rare luxury—time that feels handmade. When you pause and reverse, even the small manoeuvres feel like part of the show.
If you’ve chased big-name railways, you’ll recognise the pleasure here as something different—less spectacular, more human, and somehow more memorable.
How to book and when to go
The line opens in the warmer months, with days and times that can shift like Irish weather. It’s best to check the museum’s current details before you go, and to expect a friendly, unfussy system on the day.
Seats aren’t many, which is part of the charm, and sunshine days can fill quickly. If there’s an option to reserve, take it; if not, arrive a little early and enjoy the anticipation.
One volunteer put it best: “We run when it’s safe, and we run with a smile,” which is the kind of policy you’ll happily ride behind.
Make a day of Listowel
Listowel itself is storybook handsome, with cafés that smell of butter and a square made for lingering. This is a book town, a festival town, and a place where good cake follows any small adventure.
When you step off the train, walk by the Feale, browse for second-hand paperbacks, then find a plate of something warm and a glass of something cold.
Later, take the short drive to Ballybunion’s cliffs or stay put and let the evening light box the town in soft gold.
Tiny tips for a smoother ride
- Bring a layer, a light smile, and enough time to chat with the people who keep this line alive.
What you’ll remember
Not the length of the track, but the texture of the afternoon. Not the horsepower, but the handshakes. Not the altitude, but the soft crescents of hedges and the way a small train can make a big memory.
You’ll remember how quiet joy can be, and how good it feels to travel at the pace you actually live. You’ll remember a railway that’s modest, curious, and somehow more “you had to be there” than any mountain-side showstopper.
By the time you head home, you’ll know why Kerry locals speak of this ride in undertones. It’s not a secret, not quite, but it behaves like one—a pocket of slowed-down time stitched to a town that knows how to welcome it.
Contact details
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Farmers Forum,
36, Dominick Street,
Mullingar,
Co. Westmeath,
Ireland
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+353 (0)44 9310206
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